Thursday, November 8, 2007

Grandma's England Journal - Day Thirteen

4/12/92:

I was up early, had a shower, cup of coffee and watched a starling building a nest in the eaves of the other building of Blossoms across the garden. Christie came in to wake up with me as Joanne and Phyl were still sleeping. We watched the bird, talked of what we had seen and what we would see today. She and Joanne were intrigued by the walkway over Bootham Row and looked forward to another trip 'up and over'. At 7:30 we were all ready for the "full English breakfast". Across the courtyard to a double door basement entrance we entered a very homey, friendly atmosphere where a fair number of other guests were already enjoying their breakfast. It consisted of eggs, bacon (like Canadian bacon), toast, O.J., home fries, sausage (tasted like a hot dog) and coffee in pots. Oh yes, and grilled tomato. Most of the museums, etc., did not open until 10 a.m. so we decided to do a bus tour and get out of the bone-chilling wind that followed the misty rain of earlier. Partway on the tour the guide pointed out Clifton Tower, and we left the tour to investigate. The only access was stone steps leading steeply up about thirty or more feet. Phyl and I decided we'd watch the rest negotiate the steps and wait by the Castle Museum. The kids decided to go back to walk the wall so Phyl and I waited for a bus. Now I must remember, we purchased tickets on the Blue Line. As we waited a Green bus pulled up, when I showed the driver our ticket, he said "Hop in, it's too cold to be standing waiting" and we gratefully did. On we went taking in the River Foss, Holy Trinity Church, All Saints Church, at High Petergate, Minerva, Goddess of Wisdom sits high up on the wall. At Bootham Bar we thanked our driver and went to meet the kids at Bootham Bistro for lunch. Had a prawns and lettuce sandwich and coffee. The shrimp was fresh and very tasty. Back on the bus we saw the remains of Roman wall, the moat - now growing green with grass and dotted with clusters of daffodils. There was the crenelated wall area we had walked along yesterday afternoon, the portcullis, the cholera cemetery outside the walls. Met Doug, Lynne and the girls and planned the rest of our time. Lynne, Phyl and I went to Shambles, narrowest and oldest street in York, lined with tiny shops. Made a few purchases for memory's sake.

Then Doug, Lynne, Phyl and the girls went to do the tour of the Minster, after the tour of Ely I didn't want to make comparisons. I liked Ely best, so I went to Bootham Bar to tour the art museum. I enjoyed the quiet, the walk thru centuries of art, English, Low Country, French and Italian. I found only one Constable but it was a very good pastoral. His home was near Lavenham and the scenes he chose could almost be today. Finished, I walked out into the sunshine and in a few minutes Phyl and Lynne crossed over to join me. Doug and the girls had gone for one more tour atop the wall.

Back at Blossoms we climbed into the van and by turning the side view mirror flat and with Lynne in front directing, he got thru the wall entry without a scratch. The girls stretched out and slept. Arrived back in Ramsey about 7p.m. Great, memorable weekend.

Grandma's England Journal - Day Twelve

4/11/92:

During breakfast we discussed the driving distance (about 90 miles) and time and decided that we had better plan on two days with an overnight stay. Lynne called York and arranged a B&B at Blossoms L18 per adult with full English breakfast, we all agreed that sounded good. Lynne, Phyl and I went to the Auction and participated. I got an old oval back side chair (minus cane seat) Doug & Lynne will bring it home and I'll refinish and seat it for them. I also got a small unframed oil painting. We were back at the house, had lunch, packed overnight bags, snacks and drinks and started for York. Sunny day and warm!

Arrived at Blossoms in York about 5 p.m., took bags to our rooms, Doug and Lynne had one large room, Phyl and the girls another and I took the little room looking out on the garden three stories below. Refreshed we started our tour up and over Bootham Row (4 lanes) on elevated foot bridge we traversed Bootham Row to Petergate, inside we climbed stone steps to reach the walk along the old wall that was the city's defense line in ages past. The Views were outstanding. York Minster dominates the whole area and is complemented with many other edifices of like age and charm, if not size. We walked down and back around to the entrance area of the Minster perfectly kept green lawns and acres of daffodils everywhere we looked. The tower and Wall were closing so we went to Bootham Bistro, the restaurant recommended by the lady at Blossoms.

The Bistro is evidently a favorite of the neighborhood, as we heard a lot greeted by name. The largest tables were for 4 persons and only two of them were free. Doug Lynne and girls took one and Phyllis and I the other. Our waitress shortly asked if two ladies could join us we said we'd be glad to have them. The mother, Scottish, she said had come down from Newcastle for the weekend with her daughter (about 20 years old). We had a most enjoyable time visiting; my only anxious moments when Phyl, in her less than quiet voice, wanted to discuss the Irish problems, the elections and I wondered "who's listening".

My fish & chips (served on a plate) with peas as a vegetable was very good. Peach melba for dessert and coffee came to L7, very reasonable. Phyl had the Yorkshire pudding, a lamb stew in a pastry as large as the dinner plate. After paying our bills, we walked back to our room to relax for the evening. All of a sudden, Phyl discovered her purse missing - a thorough search of all three rooms failed to turn it up and she was nearly in a panic, she wanted Lynne to walk back with her to the Bistro, but Lynne said she and Doug could go faster. In a bit they returned, missing purse in hand. When they walked into the restaurant our waitress (at least 70 years old) said she knew they'd be back and reached under the counter for Phyl's purse. She said our table companions saw it as they were getting up to leave, they couldn't remember where we were staying but knew we had said we were in the neighborhood. Very thoughtful, kind people.

Christie and Joanne were watching one of their programs on TV, so Phyl came in my room and we had a cup of coffee (maker and packets supplied in the rooms). Watched The Masters until about 11p.m. All settled down for a good nights' sleep to be up early for sightseeing tomorrow.

Grandma's England Journal - Day Eleven

4/10/92:

Got up about 7:15 a.m. Found Eily's note saying that Major and Conservatives had won a majority of 17 seats. She said that she stayed up until 4 a.m.!! She asked us to wake her after we had had our breakfast.

As we were clearing breakfast away, the telephone rang and on the fourth ring, Phyllis answered it. It was Eily's daughter (a doctor in Portsmouth, Cornwall). When we felt we really had to leave to make the train connection, Phyl woke Eily and gave her her daughter's message that she had to attend a meeting in London that day and would see her about 5 p.m. We thanked her for her hospitality, she unlocked her double-bolted door, wished us a good trip and we headed out about 10:00.

Up the street a bit, we found a flower shop and bought an azalea to be delivered to Eily's apartment in the later afternoon. Caught #12 bus for the ride up the hill to Notting Hill Station. We switched to the Circle tube that took us to King's Cross, walked to our train only a few minutes before it left the station at 12:10 on the dot.

Arriving in Huntingdon Station we decided to have lunch while we would wait for Lynne. Phyl tried twice to call Lynne, no answer but before we had half finished, Christie popped in the door. They had been shopping on Base, planning to meet the train but there had been a 'suspicious package' left near the BX. Everyone had to stay put until it had been cleared so they had been delayed.

The girls started Spring Break today so after unloading and because it was such a beautiful day that we tackled the border flower bed, ridding it of weeds, bullthistles, and dead bamboo grasses.

Doug did steaks on the grill that Lynne complimented with baked potato, hot rolls and corn on the cob. Very tender steak, altogether a fine dinner.

After clearing away, we all went to the 'preview' of the monthly auction here in Ramsey. We'll go about 10 a.m. tomorrow and see what we can acquire. Met Doug and Lynne's friend Dean, who also likes antiques. He came back to the house with us for a glass of wine with us and some good conversation.

Catching up my journal. Next a shampoo, shower 11:30 time for lights out.

Grandma's England Journal - Day Ten

4/9/92:

Up about 7 a.m. Eily had left us a note, "Hurrah, Major's won 17 seats." Had coffee, a delicious bread, marmalade and a banana. We took the Green Line of the Tube to Kew Gardens. Walked through the eastern quarter. The Queen's conservatory of palms, past a pool, flower beds, shrubs and specimen trees similar to an arboretum. Toured the tropical conservatory with a desert room, a water garden with lilies and other water plants, an orchid room and then outside because our glasses were steamed up, couldn't read the plants' names and with our jackets, we were sweltering in there. Outside, tho it was full sun, the wind had a chill nip in it. We went throught Queen Charlotte's Palace. Great collection of paintings. The rooms were fully furnished with cards giving particulars of furnishings, pictures and memorabilia of the Royal Family.

Foot weary, we headed out of the gardens and stopped for lunch at an outdoor cafe, we had passed in the village of Kew Gardens. Had quiche/broccoli and cheese and mushrooms with a side salad of zucchini, mushrooms, onion and celery. Phyl had the quiche with tossed salad and tea. The tray was loaded so the proprietor carried the tray out to our table for me. We sat in the sun and watched people as we enjoyed our meal. Phyl took a picture of me at my first outdoor cafe. We left there for the tube and went to Kensington Gardens, the palace residence of Chas. & Diana. People were walking their dogs, children running about, a game of soccer being played, people on benches reading, lying napping on the lawn and down to the edge of a small lake. We walked a good half mile from there along the Serpentine to the Peter Pan statue. By then we were both in need of 'facilities." Unfortunately for us the only ones we had seen had been near the Queen's sunken rose garden, the sign said "OUT OF ORDER".

We were far from our point of entry, reached the Prince Albert Museum, "Closed for Repairs". Reaching a main thoroughfare, we were thoroughly confused as to go left or right. No street signs. Then I spotted a sign across the highway, "Bar & Cafe". We descended to a nice airy restaurant with RESTROOMS: it was called the Serpentine. After blessed relief, Phyl asked the bartender if he could make a manhattan, he said "What's in it?". She told him if he didn't know, she guessed we'd have a gin & tonic. Made with ICE, refreshing. We rested our feet for about 20 minutes and then started out again. We walked and WALKED! Kensington Gardens on one side and on the side we were walking, a small sign by track that was obviously for horse back, said HYDE PARK. A cross street, but no street sign. Meeting a couple passing in the direction we had come, we inquired what street we were on - they couldn't help, they said they were tourists too, from Sweden. Next we met an elderly gentleman and I asked him which way to the tube. He said it was about 1/2 mile straight ahead then turn right at the intersection and the sign for the tube would be visible, IT WAS. Hyde Park Station where we took the tube to Notting Hill, then the bus to Holland Park Gardens. We arrived about 7 p.m. Had a glass of sherry, recounted our adventures and misadventures. She had a dinner of pea soup (made with kidney beans) too spicy and SALTY, I passed. Phyl bravely ate two small bowls; chicken cacciatore, okra, and potato. She really cooks very well, the chicken was delicious but she sure likes her spices and salt.

Good talk. Eily has traveled extensively and is full of anectodes and stories of people and places. This was Election Day for England and the possibility that the Labour Party candidate could possibly defeat the Conservative Party and Mr. Major was almost unthinkable to her. We were leaving the next morning to return to Doug's so she told us to be sure to wake her before we left as she planned to stay up for the returns, 1 a.m. or later. We would have to wake her in any case for her to unlock for us to leave. Got to bed by 11 p.m. Tired but what an interesting day. Every time we puzzled over our map, or which tube, bus or direction, people offered help or were very polite as they gave directions. London is a very interesting place but the countryside and slower pace of Ramsey will be welcome.

Grandma's England Journal - Day Nine

4/8/92:

Bright, sunny and mild morning. Lynne and the girls took Phyllis and I to the Brit Rail station at Huntingdon where we boarded at 7:05 for London. Train traveled very fast, tunnels under major highway systems were hard on the ears. Saw lots of the countryside, farms, fields of green grass or perhaps wheat. Meadow after meadow of grazing sheep with their new lambs with little black faces. At King's Cross Station we purchased tickets for one day unlimited tube (or underground) and bus fare. Took the Circle Line to Notting Hill Station, then we walked several blocks downhill, past stately old residences converted to apartments, very quiet area after the bustle of the stations.

We asked a flower vendor for assistance to Holland Park Gardens. We were standing on Holland Park. We started off again and just before reaching the corner, Phyllis' friend, Eily was coming to meet us. She is a sprightly 87 years old. She had a light lunch prepared. We asked her out to dinner after we came back from sightseeing but she said no, that she liked her own cooking better and besides it was better for you. Our luggage stowed in a large bedroom with twin beds, bookcases, a fireplace and dressing table, we left.

I should describe her apartment. In one of these large homes, you enter by pushing the bell for the number of the apartment and the occupant could talk to you and also release the lock so that you could enter the foyer. Up broad (8'-10') thickly carpeted stairs in soft beige to the third floor to #8. There were two apartments to each floor. Her door was double-locked, led down a narrow hallway with closed doors on one side and occasional windows on the other. Just beyond the room Phyl and I shared, was a short hall that led to first-floor toilet (window always open) second old fashioned bath tub and wash bowl and loads of towels. I think she lived mostly in her little kitchen, old fashioned set of open shelves, very old flowered blue platters at least 18" long decorated a mantle. Her stove, sink and cookware were in a small pantry. Her walls everywhere were covered with paintings, prints and photos - of many subjects and places. Lots from India, Africa and British West Indies. Her living room was large with a fireplace, a sofa, chairs, tables and even a TV. I would call the furnishing well-worn and past their prime.

We left Eily, took a bus at the corner 94, to the top of Notting Hill. There we took the Green Line to Westminster Bridge, where we got the Thames River tour boat. That was great seeing London stretched out on both sides, other river traffic and finally London Bridge in the near distance. We docked just west of the Tower of London. We went on a tour with a Beefeater guide, took pictures of several sites, the ravens, the remnants of the old Roman wall that they are trying to preserve. I took a picture of Phyllis with one of the Beefeater guides then she was going to take my picture; another guide came up so she took one of me with two Beefeaters. They were very courteous and well-informed, willing to answer questions from our tour people and of course, pose for pictures.

We decided that after all the walking that day, we would take bus tour of London. Took the tube back to Victoria station where Tours started. We took front seats of the double decker as up on top there was a wraparound windshield. It protected us from the chill wind but let us have a fine view in all directions. The tour guides remarks came to us from speakers. It was great seeing Big Ben, Buckingham Palace, 10 Downing St., the Sherlock Holmes pub on Baker St., Trafalgar Square, Piccadilly Circus, Fleet St., riding over London Bridge, the view of the Thames - so many sights. Hope my pictures turn out.

We took the tube back to Notting Hill. Arrived back at Eily's at 6 p.m. There we had sherry, pita bread broken and dipped into cod roe topped with black olives. Thoroughly enjoyed the food and relaxed conversations as we recounted our day.

Dinner was about 9:30! Roast rack of lamb with mint jelly, cauliflower and carrots, delicious. Finished about 11 p.m. I retired very sleepy.

Grandma's England Journal - Day Eight

4/7/92:

Today Lynne had to teach. Phyllis and I did dishes, then sat down and planned what to see and how to see it in London. Did a couple of loads of wash and then set out for a walk to Ramsey village about 15 minute walk from the house. Very small town nice homes and beautiful flowers and shrubs. A walk around the two streets that constitute the business section didn't disclose a single tea room. Nearing the first street again we met a gray-haired couple with their packages coming toward us. We inquired as to a tea room or restaurant for lunch. They directed us to the White Angel Pub. Parking lot and entrance behind Bartlett's Bank. From the chalk board menu we ordered grilled ham & cheese, tea and coffee. I saw ice cream listed and told the barmaid that I'd like the ice cream too. The sandwiches were fine but the ice cream was stupendous! A footed cut-glass dish the size of a cereal bowl with six scoops ice cream. Couldn't quite finish it. Total bill L3.50 for the two of us. Phyl left the tip.

Shopped in a card shop. Got the nearest I could come to the cards 'Lan and Mir wanted. Found a British version of Golf magazine for Don.

Walked back home, finished trimming the one lavendar mound while Phyl had a nap. Finished drying the last load of wash and packing overnight bag for London tomorrow.

Grandma's England Journal - Day Seven

4/6/92:

Lynne took a 'sick' day to tour Cambridge with us but the sun refused to shine. Parked in a car park (ramp to us), walked to a main thoroughfare. Very old, interesting round Norman church on the corner. Lynne had been in it but it was closed this time.

Trudged thru Christ Church College, Queen's College and St. James College, where Phyllis' father had been a professor before going into foreign service. Chilled and in need for 'facilities', we went into large department store that covered half a block. Had lunch at the restaurant in this store. I had beef tomato and cheese bake over pasta bows, green salad, coffee and toffee bar.

Took a tour bus around Cambridge to the American Memorial and Cemetery, very impressive. Back near our car park, disembarked, toured St. James Chapel with stark adjoining "Ladies' Chapel". Down the street to the Cam (no punters in the rain) found we were one bridge up from the Bridge of Sighs so got a fair shot of it. Headed home.

On the way up to Ramsey with Doug when we arrived, I saw signs for a town called Pidley. I told him my Grandmother Hadley and my dad both often remarked that something "wasn't worth Pidley". As we again passed a sign for it at a roundabout, Lynne said she'd take me up there and I could get a better picture. She did, I did and also of the pub and few cottages that constitutes the hamlet. It is near Ramsey so we entered the town from the NE, saw the old church and the abbey ruins. The weather was the least cooperative since we had arrived but sights and sounds never to be forgotten - nor the pair of pheasants beside the hedgerow on our return trip.